Our Factory

Making The Best Golf Clubs Since 1881

Our Workshop is the heart of the company.  These are all the steps that are required to make a fully playable hickory golf club.

Selecting the best wood

There have been many different types of wood used over the centuries. In addition, many have been the by-product of other applications. The main ones being Maple, beech and persimmon.  The process starts with a plank with thickness between 2″ and 4″ is required dependent on the model and head shape required. It is important to place the template so that the grain of the timber runs in the correct direction to maximise the strength of the finished product.

Designing the wood heads

A different template is used for each head design depending on the model we are making.  We have the experience to make the George Nicoll, Tom Stewart and Bobby Jones woods.

Shaping the wood heads

As you will see from the image, the blocks are cut using a band saw and stacked ready for loading into the head-turning lathe. This heavy-duty lathe will turn 4 copies of the same head shape during each run cycle. A master copy of the head shape required is mounted first into the machine, followed by 4 timber blocks. While the steel master copy is being slowly rotated, a copy wheel follows its shape. At the same time, a set of cutters transfer the shape to each timber block, eventually reproducing the original shape of the master. Each wooden head had to be fashioned by hand in years gone by, which was a very labour intensive process. This type of machine and earlier models allowed the early industry to fulfil periods of heavier demand for product

Getting the right club head weight

It is necessary to add weight to each wooden head, some of which will come from the brass soleplate and its fixing screws, and some weight comes from the turned head. However, this is usually not enough to give the putter that certain feel that is important. Extra head weight is gained by first drilling a hole under the sole, which is then filled with molten lead. A pre-determined weight is reached before the head can pass on to the next stage. 

Cutting the Brass Sole Plate

The soleplate is cut from a sheet brass plate. The plate offers an opportunity to personalise the putter, and there are different ways to achieve this. One of the old methods is to use a hand punch formed using good quality steel with a tungsten steel cutting edge. 

Handcrafted Precise Design

Using an anvil and pound hammer and depending on the size of imprint required, the punch may need to be struck very precisely 5 or 6 times, each time relocating it exactly back into the indentation it has already created. At the St. Andrews Golf Company, we also utilise other methods to reproduce very complex precise designs onto this part of the club. 

Fitting the Brass Sole Plate

Once all the information has been put onto the plate, several holes are drilled and countersunk to accept its brass fixing screws. For added strength, the plate is also glued onto the head. Once the adhesive has hardened, the rough edges and protruding screw heads are ground off. The soleplate protects the wooden head when in use and adds weight, which is vital to the feel and usability of the finished putter. 

Sanding the Wood Head

Different grit sleeves are used on the pneumatic drums, working gradually from coarse to fine, this modern method of sanding and achieving the pleasing contours of the head has reduced the number of person-hours required to create a finished product. It still requires a skilled clubmaker to create the desired shape of the head; even now, a momentary lapse of concentration or heavy-handed approach would destroy the putter.

Turning the Hickory Shaft

Sourcing the best hickory quality is essential to get a straight grain to the shaft, enhancing strength and performance. We source our wooden billets are sourced from America, dried, cut and turned to a primary size. The shafts are turned to the required diameter, and the neck is finished, ready to fit the head. The factory cut the shafts to the specific length for the club requirement as they are fitted and glued to the heads using a scare or tapered socket joint. Once set, they are sanded individually by hand to achieve the correct flex for the particular club or customer’s preference.

Sealing the Hickory Shaft

The hickory shaft needs to be sealed against the ingress of water. In years gone by, the grain was first raised with oil and covered with bitumen, and this was then heated and rubbed vigorously with a course cloth until the grain was filled. After being allowed to dry, several coats of heavy shellac varnish were applied. With today’s modern stains and sealants which are far more durable than those of old, the laborious process of sealing the shaft has been superseded. 

Joining the Head to the Shaft

One of the strongest parts of the club is the joint between head and shaft, which is known as a scarf joint or scare. Getting the correct visual flow from the shaft into the head takes experience and a steady hand. This would have been done with a wood rasp, scraper, sandpaper, and sharkskin in years gone by. 

Decorate the Wood Head

As with the shaft, modern materials seal and colour the wooden head. Many different colours are available. This enables us to customise the product to a particular colour and design. For extra durability, each colour coat is sealed with two layers of clear varnish. If required, a decorative transfer is applied to the colour coat and sealed with the clear varnish finishing coats. When placed in the correct area on the crown of the putter, the transfer acts as a visual reminder of the whereabouts of the sweet spot on the putter face. 

Preparing the shaft for the whipping twine

Before we twine the club, we need to prepare the shaft. We gently sand the shaft, then place a sticky resin that will help strengthen the joint once the twine has been applied. Flax whipping twine is still used at the St. Andrews Golf Company to strengthen the head to shaft joint in preference to using more modern plastic filament thread. The wax and bitumen coated twine grips better than plastic and readily accepts a finishing coat of varnish. 
To facilitate a firm foundation and tacky surface, the hickory shaft is primed with bitumen in the area where the grip is to be fitted. Starting at the butt end of the club, the grip is then wrapped tightly onto the shaft until it is the correct length. Once trimmed and tapered, the ends are whipped with waxed thread.

The Finishing Touches

We then drill the end of the club and attach an end cap to the but end of the club. This is principally decorative and often has the maker's emblem or the person it is designed for.
This end cap is also important as with the constant banging a golf club receives when in the golf bag, one of the most vulnerable parts of the putter is the butt end of the hickory shaft. This protects this area, as well as adding a pleasing yet functional finishing touch to the club. A brass end cap and decorative button is screwed and glued in place.

Making The Best Golf Clubs Since 1881

St Andrews Golf Co. inspects every product before shipping to ensure we deliver a consistently high-quality product every time and the product is shipped in a protective package. This maintains strict quality control and protection for our handcrafted traditional hickory shaft products, the last of their kind to be produced by skilled clubmakers using traditional methods in the "Home of Golf."

Making The Best Golf Clubs Since 1881

Our Workshop is the heart of the company.  These are all the steps that are required to make a fully playable hickory golf club.

Selecting the best wood

There have been many different types of wood used over the centuries. In addition, many have been the by-product of other applications. The main ones being Maple, beech and persimmon.  The process starts with a plank with thickness between 2″ and 4″ is required dependent on the model and head shape required. It is important to place the template so that the grain of the timber runs in the correct direction to maximise the strength of the finished product.

Designing the wood heads

A different template is used for each head design depending on the model we are making.  We have the experience to make the George Nicoll, Tom Stewart and Bobby Jones woods.

Shaping the wood heads

As you will see from the image, the blocks are cut using a band saw and stacked ready for loading into the head-turning lathe. This heavy-duty lathe will turn 4 copies of the same head shape during each run cycle. A master copy of the head shape required is mounted first into the machine, followed by 4 timber blocks. While the steel master copy is being slowly rotated, a copy wheel follows its shape. At the same time, a set of cutters transfer the shape to each timber block, eventually reproducing the original shape of the master. Each wooden head had to be fashioned by hand in years gone by, which was a very labour intensive process. This type of machine and earlier models allowed the early industry to fulfil periods of heavier demand for product

Getting the right club head weight

It is necessary to add weight to each wooden head, some of which will come from the brass soleplate and its fixing screws, and some weight comes from the turned head. However, this is usually not enough to give the putter that certain feel that is important. Extra head weight is gained by first drilling a hole under the sole, which is then filled with molten lead. A pre-determined weight is reached before the head can pass on to the next stage. 

Cutting the Brass Sole Plate

The soleplate is cut from a sheet brass plate. The plate offers an opportunity to personalise the putter, and there are different ways to achieve this. One of the old methods is to use a hand punch formed using good quality steel with a tungsten steel cutting edge. 

Handcrafted Precise Design

 Using an anvil and pound hammer and depending on the size of imprint required, the punch may need to be struck very precisely 5 or 6 times, each time relocating it exactly back into the indentation it has already created. At the St. Andrews Golf Company, we also utilise other methods to reproduce very complex precise designs onto this part of the club. 

Fitting the Brass Sole Plate

Once all the information has been put onto the plate, several holes are drilled and countersunk to accept its brass fixing screws. For added strength, the plate is also glued onto the head. Once the adhesive has hardened, the rough edges and protruding screw heads are ground off. The soleplate protects the wooden head when in use and adds weight, which is vital to the feel and usability of the finished putter. 

Sanding the Wood Head

Different grit sleeves are used on the pneumatic drums, working gradually from coarse to fine, this modern method of sanding and achieving the pleasing contours of the head has reduced the number of person-hours required to create a finished product. It still requires a skilled clubmaker to create the desired shape of the head; even now, a momentary lapse of concentration or heavy-handed approach would destroy the putter.

Turning the Hickory Shaft

Sourcing the best quality of hickory is important to get a straight grain to the shaft which enhances strength and performance. Our wooden billets are sourced from America, dried, cut and turned to a basic size. The shafts are turned to the required diameter and the neck is finished ready to be fitted to the head. The factory cut the shafts to the specific length for the club requirement as they are fitted and glued to the heads either using a scare or tapered socket joint. Once set they are sanded individually by hand to achieve the correct flex for the particular club or customer’s preference.

Sealing the Hickory Shaft

The hickory shaft needs to be sealed against the ingress of water. In years gone by the grain was first raised with oil and covered with bitumen, this was then heated and rubbed vigorously with a course cloth until the grain was filled. After being allowed to dry, several coats of heavy shellac varnish were applied. With today’s modern stains and sealants which are far more durable than those of old the laborious process of sealing the shaft has been superseded. 

Joining the Head to the Shaft

One of the strongest parts of the club is the joint between head and shaft, which is known as a scarf joint or scare. Getting the correct visual flow from the shaft into the head takes experience and a steady hand. This would have been done with a wood rasp, scraper, sandpaper, and sharkskin in years gone by. 

Decorate the Wood Head

As with the shaft, modern materials seal and colour the wooden head. Many different colours are available. This enables us to customise the product to a particular colour and design. For extra durability, each colour coat is sealed with two layers of clear varnish. If required, a decorative transfer is applied to the colour coat and sealed with the clear varnish finishing coats. When placed in the correct area on the crown of the putter, the transfer acts as a visual reminder of the whereabouts of the sweet spot on the putter face. 

Preparing the shaft for the whipping twine

Before we twine the club, we need to prepare the shaft. We gently sand the shaft, then place a sticky resin that will help strengthen the joint once the twine has been applied. Flax whipping twine is still used at the St. Andrews Golf Company to strengthen the head to shaft joint in preference to using more modern plastic filament thread. The wax and bitumen coated twine grips better than plastic and readily accepts a finishing coat of varnish. 
To facilitate a firm foundation and tacky surface, the hickory shaft is primed with bitumen in the area where the grip is to be fitted. Starting at the butt end of the club, the grip is then wrapped tightly onto the shaft until it is the correct length. Once trimmed and tapered, the ends are whipped with waxed thread.

The Finishing Touches

We then drill the end of the club and attach an end cap to the but end of the club. This is principally decorative and often has the maker's emblem or the person it is designed for.
This end cap is also important as with the constant banging a golf club receives when in the golf bag, one of the most vulnerable parts of the putter is the butt end of the hickory shaft. This protects this area, as well as adding a pleasing yet functional finishing touch to the club. A brass end cap and decorative button is screwed and glued in place.

Making The Best Golf Clubs Since 1881

St Andrews Golf Co. inspects every product before shipping to ensure we deliver a consistently high-quality product every time and the product is shipped in a protective package. This maintains strict quality control and protection for our handcrafted traditional hickory shaft products, the last of their kind to be produced by skilled clubmakers using traditional methods in the "Home of Golf."